In a recent article published by Fashion Network Nigeria’s leather industry was shown in a new light as it struggles to claim its global identity.
Most of the country’s leather leaves only partly processed and once it reaches Europe and Asia it is turned into high-end products carrying famous international labels with no sign of their Nigerian origin.
In Lagos, designer Isi Omiyi is determined to change this picture. From a small studio in her apartment she displays handbags, wallets and shoes priced up to $1,500.
“Leather is part of our heritage. I can’t just stand by and watch others receive all the credit for work that we started here”
Isi Omiyi, Designer, Nigeria
Omiyi wants foreign labels to clearly state “originally from Nigeria” when they sell products made with Nigerian leather. She believes this would help restore the country’s lost identity in global luxury markets.
Nigeria exports about 90% of its leather, mainly to Italy and Spain. These two countries handle nearly three-quarters of Nigeria’s leather shipments.
Annual revenue from this trade is estimated at $600 million, according to Oluwole Oyekunle, a researcher at the Nigerian Institute of Leather and Science Technology.
Kano remains the hub for tanneries. Ztannery, one of the state’s largest facilities, began operations in 2010.
“We process from zero to semi-finished leather, which is 80% of the whole process”
Abbas Hassan Zein, Owner, Ztannery
He added that once they export the semi-finished leather to Europe they undergo final treatment before being sold to luxury brands like Gucci, Ferragamo, Prada, Louis Vuitton.
Only 10% of the finished leather remains linked to Nigeria while the rest becomes labeled as “Made in Italy” or “Made in China”.
Modern tanneries with advanced machinery only accept large orders paid in foreign currency, shutting out small Nigerian designers who buy in naira.
Efforts to strengthen the local industry are growing. In 2017 Femi Olayebi, founder of FemiHandbags, launched the Lagos Leather Fair. The annual event now hosts about 100 leather professionals showcasing Nigerian craftsmanship.
“There was a need for a platform dedicated to designers, products, and leather suppliers, demonstrating that Nigerians, with their own resources, are capable of creating items that are worth purchasing”
Femi Olayebi, Founder, Femi Handbags
Interest from foreign investors is also rising. Indian, Chinese and some European producers have begun exploring manufacturing options in Kano, said Tijjani Sule Garo of GB Tannery, a family business spanning three generations.
In August the Lagos state government opened a leather goods factory in Mushin to create 10,000 jobs. Located near one of Nigeria’s biggest leather markets, the plant is part of a wider plan to grow the sector.
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