The Italian footwear industry is struggling with the first half of 2025 showing contraction in both production and turnover.
However, the second quarter brought a slight slowdown in the decline, offering some cautious relief ahead of MICAM, the international footwear fair set to open on September 7 at Fiera Milano Rho.
According to the Confindustria Moda Accessories Research Center for Assocalzaturifici, turnover among member companies dropped 5.6% in January to June while industrial production fell 9.5% compared to last year.
Exports remain the sector’s lifeline since 85% of Italian made shoes go abroad. From January to May 2025 exports reached €4.89 billion, down 2.7% in value, although pairs sold rose 3.2% to 84.5 million. The average price per pair fell 5.7% to €57.82.
EU markets performed slightly better, recording a 1% growth in value. Germany showed a strong rebound with exports up 12.4% in value and 15.8% in volume.
France remained the top destination but sales slipped 5.5% in value despite a modest rise in pairs. Outside Europe, the picture was much bleaker.
Exports to the Far East plunged 23% while Russia dropped 14.4% and Ukraine 3.8%. Leather-upper shoes, a flagship product, also declined both in value and volume.
“The uncertainty of the impact of US tariffs remains and their real consequences on sales can only be quantified once autumn data is available.”
Giovanna Ceolini, President, Assocalzaturifici
The issue of tariffs is especially pressing. The US was the second-largest export market for Italian footwear in 2024 with nearly €1.4 billion in sales.
While shipments to the US held steady in April and May 2025, industry leaders fear the 15% baseline duty introduced by the EU agreement and contested in US courts could reshape buying patterns. Companies may be forced to absorb costs that would hit their margins.
The domestic market also remains weak. Italian household spending on footwear dropped 0.7% in value and 1.9% in volume.
Sneakers and sports shoes were the only categories with growth at 1.2%. Imports increased by 18.2% in volume, mainly from Asia, further pressuring local producers.
Employment and business demographics reflect the tough conditions. In the first half of 2025, Italy lost 81 footwear companies, a 2.4% decline, and 1,392 jobs.
Looking forward, expectations remain cautious. With global demand uncertain and trade tensions unresolved, 58% of entrepreneurs expect to close the year with weaker results than 2024.
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Source – Assocalzaturifici
